Pete Merzbacher has been the city’s gypsy baker since launching Philly Bread in April, griddling his square “Philly Muffins” for wholesale clients after-hours in a half-dozen pizzerias around town.
He’s just settled into a promising former pizza shop at 4905 N. Fifth St. with the kind of oven he needs to bake the crusty rustic loaves.
His square muffins are already are worth seeking out, easily some of the best I’ve eaten - extra-chewy with a yeasty sweetness from two separate starters that foster big, irregular craters inside that toast up nice and crisp.
- Craig LaBan
Place of business: 1429 Virginia Ave.,
Sheboygan, WI, 53081
Philly Muffins by Philly Bread, $4.25 for four, Mariposa Food Co-Op, 4824 Baltimore Ave., 215-729-2121. Links: